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Nordic and world braids and bands 2022
TECHNIQUES - RIGID HEDDLE/INKLE WEAVING
Shahla will explain two traditional Iranian band weaving techniques, and I will show samples and pictures of their use: Tof bafi (Tof weaving): Normally in the process of weaving we have two basic elements (warp and weft) and a shed is the space between the warp that according to a draft, the weft will pass through and, by interchanging the warps, a cloth or a band will be made. But in this special technique the weft, which is a double or tripled metal thread, wraps around one or more warps (depending on the thickness of the warp) and appears on the surface of the band as a brocade. The warp remains uneven in between. In fact there is no shed and only the warp keeps the brocade weft in place. This a very simple but so elegant band for ornamenting and it has been used for such function in our country for centuries. Kosti bafi (kosti weaving): This a very unique way of weaving a sacred and symbolic belt. The weaving process is somewhat like backstrap and you will learn to make string heddles. But unlike backstrap weaving, four string heddles create two layers which will be joined by the weft and the band becomes a tubular structure (like a shoelace), traditionally used as a belt.
Each student brings: Two G-clamps, metallic thread for the weft and cotton or wool thread for the warp (none of these should be very thin). For the second technique the equipment is the same, but the thread warp and weft should be white lambswool. Scissors, pen/pencil and colored pencils, notebook. Materials fee: no fee |
In this workshop you will learn to weave a Sámi belt with a traditional Sámi pattern using a Sigga heddle. A back strap will be provided as part of the workshop equipment. The Sigga heddle takes up to 16 pattern threads and up to 55 background threads. The heddle will be ready warped, but you will be able to choose the colour of your pattern threads. The Sigga heddle produces pattern with ‘jumping’ pattern threads. Groups of pattern threads are picked up to produce the pattern on the surface. The underlying background weave is warp-faced plain weave. Sámi band weaving wool is used for the warp and weft. The pattern threads are slightly thicker than the background threads. You will thread the coloured pattern threads of your choice then learn to weave: how to start weaving, how to change the weft, how to finish weaving. This heddle was designed by Stoorstalka after a request by a Sami weaving teacher, to make this type of weaving easier. I will illustrate how these bands were woven traditionally using a standard heddle. The Sigga heddle is a great improvement. The one-day workshop is for participants who have some experience in weaving bands.
Photos: Sigga heddle with woven band: two patterns, one with one group of 12 pattern threads the second with one group of 8 and one group of 4. Two bands with different coloured pattern threads: one with 8 red and four green, the second with 8 green and four red. Each student brings: Scissors and notebook. A camera would be useful. Please bring your own shuttle. The ideal shuttle for weaving is the Sámi Gepha shuttle. I realize that some of you may already have a Gehpa shuttle so please bring your own. If you require one, I will have Gepha shuttles for sale. Materials fee: Dkr. 200. This fee includes:
1. A Sigga heddle for 16 pattern threads
2. Warp and weft in Sámi band weaving wool.
3. Booklet of instructions.
4. A handwoven, linen backstrap belt.
5. Clip it – to secure the warp around the belt.
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In the Andes some Peruvian and Bolivian tribes weave narrow bands as decorative edge trims. The most common trim is a tubular band with an eye pattern. The technique used to make these trims is a combination of braiding and weaving. First you cross the warp threads and then you pull a weft through it. Less known are the flat bands you can make. In these flat bands diagonal-line designs can be made by crossing the warp threads in units of four. Each unit consists of two light threads and two dark threads. Two types of lines are possible: up toward the right and up toward the left. The simplest pattern is a zigzag made of eight warp threads. More complicated patterns can be made by making a broader warp or by making consecutive crosses. In this workshop we start with the simple zigzag after which we continue with the more complicated patterns. The technique can be done on an inkle loom or backstrap.
Each student brings: preferably a small shuttle Materials fee: 40 Dkr. This fee includes cotton crochet thread nr 3, printed tutorial with patterns, heddle material.
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In this workshop we use thin threads to weave pick-up pattern bands with a rigid heddle. The patterns are inspired by traditional Swedish-Ostrobothnian bands from the western part of Finland. We use a heddle with extra slots for the pattern threads and you will learn how to warp it correctly. You will also learn how to read the chart and pick-up the pattern, and what you should think about when adapting the pattern for earrings or bracelets. The workshop is suitable for weavers with some experience, since the thin threads can be challenging for a beginner. The material fee includes a warp made with base threads in undyed cotton 16/2, tex 36x2 and pattern threads in worsted wool tex 28x2 in black, yellow, or green. When signing up for the workshop you can choose which pattern color you prefer. We will go through the instructions on how to make earrings and if time allows we can also complete them during the workshop.
Each student brings: Heddle, strongly recommended is the model “Sunna 9 pattern picking” from Stoorstålka: https://shop.stoorstalka.com/en/products/handicrafting-diy/yarn/weaving/bandweaving-heddles/heddle-sunna/heddle-sunna-9-pattern-picking.html. The heddle can be purchased (145 Dkr) or borrowed from the teacher.
Gepha shuttle or other pointedshuttle; belt and a S-hook; scissors,measuring tape, needle for sewing Materials fee: 120 Dkr. This fee includes handout with pattern inspired by Ostrobothnian bands, instructions for warping and weaving and for making earrings; warp; supplies for earrings and bracelet. 145 Dkr: Sunna 9 picking pattern heddle from Stoorstålka |
This workshop is for anyone who wants to weave bands and requires no prior knowledge. We are going to weave beautiful bands with patterns formed using color effects. We start with a thorough review of how both the rigid heddle loom and the inkle loom are set up. An infinite number of pattern combinations can be formed using color effects. The different patterns are formed by placing colors in the warp in different orders. You will learn how to weave transverse and longitudinal stripes, and squares and dots, for example. At the workshop, you will be introduced to various finished products that show some of the many options for using woven bands for, for example, keychains, bags, and pillows. After this day of weaving, you will be able to weave a multitude of bands on your own!
Each student brings: a rigid heddle or inkle loom. If you don’t have either, you may borrow from the tutor. Materials fee: 75 Dkr. This fee includes warp and weft and use of a rigid heddle and shuttle. |
Workshop Cancelled This taster session requires no prior knowledge of weaving. We make it as simple as weaving can be, so anyone who wants to play with threads and colors is welcome. We are going to weave bracelets by placing the warp up on a piece of cardboard and weave the weft with large, blunt needles. Using these simple tools, beautiful colors, and tapestry techniques, you can weave small works of art for your wrist. At the taster session, you will learn how to set up the warp and how to weave various weaving techniques. At the end of the session, you‘ll learn different ways to finish and mount the finished bracelet.
Each student brings: nothing required Materials fee: 50 Dkr. This fee includes yarns, needle, and cardboard. |
Workshop Cancelled If you have made some inkle bands, and you are not sure what to use them for, this workshop may inspire and help you to design and make a bag from them. There will be demonstrations of a variety of ways to make bags from inkle bands and a practical session to explore the options for your own bands. This will include consideration of what the bag will be used for, the size, design and shape. There will also be a demonstration on how to complete a bag by adding lining, zips, straps, decoration, fringes etc. The intention of this workshop is to give you some inspiration, skills and confidence to make bags from inkle bands. Please bear in mind that it is unlikely that there will be time to complete a bag during the session. This workshop is suitable for anyone who has already produced some inkle bands and is wondering what they can do with them, it might also be suitable for those who are interested in designing inkle bands specifically to make bags with.
Each student brings: Inkle bands, or something similar suitable for making a bag with, Extra strong thread for hand sewing, preferably a corresponding colour, needles, pins and/or safety pins, tape measure, scissors
Materials fee: none
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Working on a basic backstrap loom we will weave Baltic-style inkle bands, in this workshop. Learn to plan an inkle weaving project, set up a simple backstrap loom using a warping draft and then weave your inkle band using a range of Baltic-style pattern charts. We will explore the historical uses for this particular style of woven bands, and you will also have the option to design your own patterns to work from, if you wish. The intention of this workshop is to either learn new band weaving skills, and for those already familiar with this craft, an opportunity to share your backstrap loom and Baltic-pattern weaving skills. This workshop is suitable for beginners and those with basic knowledge of inkle weaving who wish to develop their skills further.
Each student brings: A basic rigid-heddle backstrap loom, (more complex versions are welcome) consisting of: G-clamp, band/belt or pointed shuttle, a rigid-heddle, band or patterned heddle, two strong, contrasting coloured warp yarns, of your personal preference; (traditionally the background thread is linen and the pattern thread is wool), belt, scissors.
Useful, but not essential: reed/threading hook, pick, cross sticks, spacers, two warping posts Baltic warping drafts and pattern charts will be supplied, but if you have any of your own, particularly if you have any specific regional patterns, please bring them to share. Materials fee: none
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Learn and practice the fast weaving technique on a band loom with half-heddles as practiced in the Dalarna region in middle-Sweden – a fast and efficient technique used by those who wove bands professionally. Note that it is the technique and not the band which is unique. You’ll have the opportunity to weave on one of my band looms, which will be warped with thin cotton yarn. It has short heddles, of the older type we used in Scandinavia; it needs to have more space than an inkle loom. You pull and push the warp to get the shed and use a small wooden peg as a shuttle and beat with a knife. With this technique you can produce a couple of meters per hour. The bands will be a tabby weave. You will learn the technique of the weaving but you’ll have to practice more at home before you can weave at high speed. It is a really nice way of weaving once you master it.
Each student brings: cotton yarn for weft
Materials fee: 20 Dkr. Fee includes use of my looms. |
There are two kinds of Sanada-himo, flat and tubular. When weaving a tubular cord, a 4 shaft weaving loom needed. Susan J. Foulkes and I developed new rigid heddle named Two layered Structure Heddle. With it, a tubular cord can be woven with just one heddle. The technique is backstrap weaving,similar to Sami band weaving. We have already introduced this new heddle at the Braids 2019, but we want more people to know about it. Susan will help me as an assistant teacher. For both beginner and expert weavers.
Each student brings: scissors, paper, and pencil for notes Materials fee: 250 Dkr. This fee includes all the tools to weave tubular Sanada-himo: The two layered structure heddle, shuttle, leaflet, pattern draft, clips, and cotton thread.
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This session will introduce structures used in weaving passementerie--narrow decorative bands used as trimmings for a number of purposes, including upholstered furniture and curtains. We will experiment and make samples of different types of woven passementerie. The session is suitable for anyone who can set up and weave a plain weave band. Setup Option 1: warp-faced band Warp – smooth, strong warp such as mercerized cotton is suggested, approximately 1.5 cm wide and 1 M long. Weft – one base weft (can match warp; will only show at edges); minimum 2 decorative wefts. Setup Option 2: weft-faced band Warp--8 warps at 2.5 cm wide works well; approximately 1.5 M long (this version uses thicker threads). If you use a frame loom, I recommend preparing several narrow warps with spaces in between, and bringing extra warp in case you need to set up your loom again. Weft: you will need one base weft – double what you used as warp, or some other yarn large enough to cover the warp; minimum 2 decorative wefts. Decorative wefts: These should be larger and stiffer than the warp threads; I suggest bringing a number of different yarns to experiment with. Wool yarn (firmly plied), satin cord, twine, linen, ribbon, bundles of thinner yarns, or anything else you’d like to try. (I’ve even used string from the hardware store.) 1 M each minimum.
Each student brings: small scissors, weaving beater/comb/fork appropriate to your choice of warp, shuttles, or bobbins for base weft (optional), large blunt needle for weaving in weft ends (optional), note taking materials (optional). Students should bring at least one prepared warp and the equipment to weave it (depending on travel circumstances, this may mean inkle or band loom, frame loom, or a backstrap weaving setup with a rigid heddle or string heddles). Warp-faced plain weave is the usual method of weaving passementerie; for sampling purposes, weft-faced is fine – use whatever works best on the setup you bring. Materials fee: 30 Dkr. This fee includes additional decorative wefts. |
